Ruger lc380 trigger job youtube full#

Proper trigger control dictates that you do not let up on the trigger all the way, rather just to the reset before you begin to pull again. The Reset.В This is the distance the trigger travels forward after the firearm cycles, before you hear the click of the trigger resetting. However since we are reducing the trigger pull weight so dramatically, the impact will still be reduced. That's one of the biggest advantages of our Tier 2 trigger work. On our Tier 3 triggers we do NOTВ install an overtravel stop.

By reducing the overtravel distance and the pull weight, you reduce the amount of energy that is transferred to the firearm.

As soon as the trigger breaks, that 7lbs of force accelerates up to speed over 1/4' or however much overtravel you have, and impacts the firearm probably before the round has even ignited, jerking your sights off target. The theory goes that if you have a 7lb trigger, that means you are applying 7lbs of force, but it's stationary so there is no actual energy being transferred. On a factory trigger group, this is when it runs into the back of the trigger guard. The Overtravel.В This is the distance the trigger travels between the break, and wherever it stops. The amount of pressure it takes for the trigger to break is what is referred to as the trigger pull weight. That's how our break will feel after the work is finished. That rod will not bend or move before it simply shatters without warning. Imagine a glass rod suspended between two points, and you start to put pressure on it. After our trigger work, the break will be glass-rod crisp. This results in the line between the pre-travel and the break becoming blurred, and it makes it difficult to know exactly when your shot is going to break when you are trying to make accurate shots. From the factory this is usually not a snap at all, but rather a long and crunchy motion which picks up where the crunchy pre-travel leaves off. The Break.В This is the actual snap of the hammer releasing. If you have a metal group, we can't guaranty that, and actually recommend that you jump up to the Tier 2 work. If you are starting with a polymer trigger group, we can often get this motion perfectly smooth. This basic level of work will not change the amount of pre-travel, but it will make it considerably lighter and smoother.

The pre-travel.В ThisВ is that empty motion before the trigger hits 'the wall.' From the factory there is typically a lot of that motion, it's rough, and it's very heavy. The factory trigger group is a two stage trigger, which means there are four elements to it's motion. Most of the drop in hammer kits ONLY give you a lighter trigger pull, but everything else is still rough and sluggish.ДЇor this level of work we are not installing any new parts, merely re-working what you've already got. The most important thing is that we re-work every part of this trigger in some way, which improves every aspect of the trigger motion as explained below. But this trigger WILL feel better than the new Ruger BX triggers, and if the 10/22 came with this trigger in the first place, there would not be this huge aftermarket surge of trigger options.

Ruger lc380 trigger job youtube full#

This is not a full tilt competition trigger, that's what the Tier 2 and 1 are for. But if you like your 10/22 as it is and you don't plan on turning it into a $1,000 custom benchrest rifle, then this is a great option. It will not give you the equivalent of a $300 Kidd trigger. This is an outstanding entry level value.